Oil filter change on the ZZR. Ready for new season. Always feels satisfying

*Oil & filter change on the ZZR. Ready for new season. Always feels satisfying :) *Not recommending any type of oil/filter combo!! Don't want to open that can of worms. It's just the choice I go with ;)

  • 4.5 ltrs. Will take you to where your oil needs to be to avoid any 3rd cylinder issues.

  • I disagree with that Mark! Never heard of duff 3rd cylinder on the 14. Used to be an issue on the early 1100. However, as I said, folks make their own choices on how they maintain their bikes :)

  • As you say Geoff each to their own, it's known that cylinder 3 can suffer oil starvation especially if left running on the side stand so running slightly more oil will help elevate the issue.

    At least that's what I've heard on more than one Zed forum.

  • Fair enough Mark. I respect your choice. Better a little more than not enough! ;)

  • That's what I tell my wife when I'm looking for bits for the bike

  • Haha! Good un!!! ;)

  • If running on side stand causes oil starvation. won't that happen when you are going round a corner leant over.

  • Not unless it's a very very very long corner, I'm only stating what I have been told on several ZZR sites from long established members.

  • There's more than one on here that has had number 3 let go.ask Richard Thomson for one,and he's an engineer....

  • Another benefit to having a centre stand.

  • It is a well known problem with the ZZR1400 and all have blown number three crank bearing whilst moving, Richard Thomson at 65mph on the M25 I believe, not while on the side stand. Keep them topped up and just a mm over the top line. No-one knows for sure why number three crank bearing gets starved of oil, although I suspect Kawasaki do but refuse to do anything about it. I do know that the sump is very shallow so maybe that is where the problem lies. I certainly will only use Kawasaki oil filters and Motul 5100 oil that my dealer also uses.

  • I agree there is a known problem but they choose not deal with it. Or tell.

    A mystery maybe.

    I use genuine filters on any of my cars and bikes.

    Oil what I learnt it does three things cools, lubricates, and should be gearbox shred and foam resistance.

    The gearbox thins the oil over time (shearing and foaming). If the oil is foaming and you wouldn't know. The oil would be thinner at that time and big end would lose its critical oil gap between Conrod and journal ie No 3 causing metal to metal contact.

    Zzr1400 run hot (which is fine) fully synthetic also has wider heat range than either mineral or semi synthetic and so stay together better.

    Keeps its viscosity longer

    Bike oils have gearbox additive to stop shear effect and foaming of gears on oil.

    Have I made a point I don't know for me next oil change fully synthetic bike specific oil what ever it costs and genuine oil filter. Keep oil level at top or slightly over level window.

  • P.S when it's at full hot temperature as they do fully synthetic will still be at full viscosity.

  • I can confirm that I had a catastrophic engine failure occur while riding at about 65mph on the M25 on a Gen1 zzr14.

    No3 con rod bearing melted, the conrod snapped and punched a hole through the front of the block.

    I know of at least 3 others who I have spoken to personally and one of those in Kent was a Gen2

  • Good post, although using fully synthetic in an engine that has done less than 5,000 or even 10,000 miles isn't recommended by oil companies for reasons that are way to boring to talk about here.

  • I've done 27000 what meant 5000 a year. Sorry for I didn't explain it properly

  • Oil manufacturers don't recommend using fully synthetic oil in a new engine until it has done at least 5,000 miles. Not a year but in total.