Lost second belt today in less than 100 miles. Same situation on both, traveling at medium to high speed on logging road for 30 minutes or so. Get a burning rubber smell and then loose a belt. Did read that the belt could be getting too hot. OEM Kawi belt and clutch looks great. Did make it home on this one but I could tell that the belt was done. Any suggestions? Don't normally travel at high speeds but I late for dinner. Lol. Any help appreciated.
Lost second belt today in less than 100 miles Same situation on both traveling...
What year? Early 14's had a recall on the primary clutch
Mine ate the first belt at 100 km. No problem since i changed out the clutch
2012 T4. 28" Zillas
I was having some issues with my 2012 t4 on one of my trips and realized I had switched my secondary clutch due to breaking a spreader bolt. My temp were running in the low 200 when it normally ran in the 170's. When I got back home I reinstalled my original secondary and never had more issues with belt temp. In short, you might be having some issues with your secondary clutch. Sorry for the long response.
Hey, thank you very much for the insight Roger I appreciate it very much. As far as I know all my clutch is original. There was one belt changed before I bought the bike and the belt that I installed last week.
The back up clutch I had put in was from a guy that had issues with his belts and slipping. He replaced both primary and secondary. So in guessing his issues was with the secondary not operating correctly. I know Vforce also does work on secondaries also. I would give him a buzz and pick his brain. He is a great guy. Your welcome, hope you get it figured out.
Have you checked the deflection (alignment) of clutches. If it's off the belt will not last long
When the deflection is off it will usually start eating the sides of belt off and it will slip and overheat belt. The deflection is adjusted with washers behind the secondary clutch between transmission and clutch. To adjust you add or remove washers as needed and they make several different thickness washer to get correct alignment of clutches
Deflection will need to be corrected as the clutch faces wear. Another thing to check is make sure your clutch intake air tube is not restricted and check the clutch exhaust air output tube is good.
I had to take a press and get the strings that were wrapped around the second deary found that out after The third belt I pt it through hell this weekend no problems
UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE!!! So it looks like I had the wrong belt on. My bad? I got what I asked for. I gave the part number for a T2 and I needed a T4. All the clutching is different for those that didn't know. Live and learn. Thanks everyone.
I snorkeled mine and it took care of it.....the intake for them units are right on top of the motor pulling in hot air.....
What year teryx you have my 2012 pulls the air for clutch up under the dash behind the speedo unit. The clutch exhaust air duck is routed into engine area and is used to force the hotter air out of engine area
T2 has a totally different clutch intake tube set up then T4 in early years then I think 2013 or 2014 they all went to the T2 style clutch intake wich get it air from inside engine area.
2014 went to this style clutch intake wich is more likely to suck in water and hot air from motor area
The early T4 had the intake tube that got its air from up under dash
Mine was right on top of the top end....right where all the heat was at.....poor poor design on that part
Wish mine was in the dash for sure
I agree poor design, don't know why but Kawasaki went to the T2 style on all the newer teryx's. The early t4 the stock air intake was up much higher and drew in much cleaner cooler air. Probably more cost effective to do the later model style
You'd think it might be a problem, but people who haven't changed it aren't seeing a problem.
That's the cheapest solution there could have been
you can explain how to align thanks
Alcibiades Medina out on a ride right now not very good service will message you later
Belt Deflection is where the belts rides on the two fixed clutch faces on primary and secondary. the front clutch is not adjustable. The rear clutch is adjusted to keep belt in alignment with front clutch. This is done by removing rear clutch and adding or removing shims between the clutch and transmission. As the clutch faces wear (usually primary) the deflection of belt can get off and start riding at a angle wich causes belt slippage, belt over heating and failure prematurely.
thank you very much brother
This was my problem with the belt
Alcibiades Medina doesn't look like it ate sides off. There is shims that's can be removed from the secondary clutch but you have to disassemble it to get to them. There used to adjust the free play of belt. Usually if the clutch doesn't engage at low RPM you need to remove a shim or add a thinner shim inplace of the one or ones in it. Usually you will be able to tell if belt is getting to thin or if secondary needs shims taking out since the clutch will not engage tell higher RPM or will bang into gear or be hard to get into gear at a full stop
I put over 1200 miles riding in Colorado on a 2014 T2 with no problems with stock vent. I did put a round vent in the back of the console that let some hot air out.
There's actually been a lot more complaints on the later style having belt and clutch problems. Even a bunch of the clutch builders say say right in there forums that the later clutches tend to run hotter due to they recirculating the hotter air from the engine compartment. They also tend to recirculating the dirty air that builds up in engine compartment
My 14 was recalled and they put a new clutch and belt on