• Clean air system delete

    Clean air system delete,

    I'm trying to save a bit of cash by not buying the new port covers and was going to replace the reed valves with a metal plate the same thickness.

    Has anyone done the same and what material was used?

    Wound aluminium be ok? Or would it melt with the heat? I think it's good for about 600 degrees c but not sure if it is suitable?

    Many thanks

    • Aluminium would be fine. Surface temperatures of air cooled engines are in the region of 250 degrees, closer to 500 at exhaust flange.

    • These are the bits I make - use new gaskets behind the plates and job done

    • That's what I'm hoping to make, except the middle tube. I'll just blank it off.

    • All that faffing about! blocking the pipe under the tank renders it usless so no popping and banging and does not involve any stripping down and rebuilding.

    • I just tap a brass core plug into each side where the pipe is removed from. Total cost under $2 and dead simple, and looks good :)

    • if you are saving $ you don't need to buy that plate, all you need is a tube like Mark use and other small parts to block holes.

    • Such as marbles. Duh.

    • Got a picture Scott?

    • I was thinking about blocking the hose up but thought I'd rather remove the stuff that's not needed to de clutter on top of the engine. Also, I like tinkering and making up little plates means more time in the garage :)

    • Nicely put Marcus - it does a lot to tidy it all up!

    • I did a writeup it should be in the files section from about 5 years ago or do a search

    • I have Troy Goatass Pick some spares he did it.more recently

    • Looks great Mark!

    • Just pulling out the flap valves. After cleaning them up I noticed one says 1.3 and the other says 1.9 on the rubber seals. Any idea why the different numbers?

    • No idea although theyre different to all the ones I've done (see my other pic above) - I'm guessing yours is a late model? Anyway doesn't matter just make some blanking ones and enjoy it running better bud

    • Mines a 1999 so one of the first :) just knocking up some plates now.

    • What did you use for the middle tube?

    • Job done, just got to wait for the vacuum T and the air box grommet. Thanks for all the info

    • Turned it up out of alloy bar bud

    • Just completed the clean air-ectomy! After a speedy delivery from Kawasaki original parts.

      Only thing I found was rusty looking fuel coming from the small opening on the actuator... anyone else find this?

      Looking forward to a test ride this weekend!

    • Do you sell these ,I've blocked the inlet stub at the moment but yours is much neater


      Mark Drury

    • Marcus - not "rusty" fuel exactly, but I did have a yellow, oily residue that smelled of fuel come out of the vacuum port of that actuator... a couple of tablespoons worth just poured out. The same stuff that came out of one of the ports of my left carb (see the arrow in the pic). When I asked around, nobody responded as having seen it before, and I never sorted that one out...

    • I had evidence of carb float valve problems, so I'm guessing it was an air filter oil and fuel mixture that somehow got sucked into the vacuum system - but I still can't fathom how so much fluid would travel "against the vacuum" and against gravity to end up filling that actuator on top of the engine...

    • I did have a head scratch on how it would end up in there...

      it deffo smelled of fuel but looked rusty. Hopefully it's nothing I need to worry about, I've not noticed any issues with floats sticking etc. I'll keep my eyes open. Thanks for the info Matthew